If you’re in the southern hemisphere, plant boxwood around March for fall or September for spring. Planting during the spring and fall months gives boxwood time to establish itself so it can survive harsher weather.

Boxwood shrubs love sunlight, but they also grow pretty well in partial shade. It’s best to put them in spots with dappled light, such as near overhanging trees, so they don’t lose their color. The north side of a building is considered to be the perfect spot for boxwood. The north side gets lots of shade with dappled sunlight. The west side is the next best alternative, and the east after that. If you’re growing hedges, try to keep the boxwood in enough sunlight. Choose one of the most sun-tolerant varieties, like Wintergreen boxwood, to survive in full summer sunlight.

To test how well your yard drains, dig a 12 in (30 cm)-wide hole 12 in (30 cm) deep, fill it with water, then refill it the next day. The water level should then decrease by at least 1 in (2. 5 cm) every hour. Watch your yard after a strong storm comes through. The areas that don’t drain well will stay damp and even have water puddles long after the weather has cleared up.

If you’re putting boxwood into a pot, choose a potting mix with the right pH level. Add lime to the soil if the pH is too low. Acidic compost can also nudge the pH level up a little. Mix sulfur in if your yard’s pH is too high.

Keep in mind the size you expect the boxwood to be when it’s fully-grown. There are many different kinds of boxwood, and some of them grow bigger than others. In general, dwarf and English boxwoods should be 2 to 3 in (5. 1 to 7. 6 cm) apart. Wintergreen and American boxwood grow wider, so place them about 4 in (10 cm) apart. Plan on keeping boxwood at least 7 in (18 cm) from your home and other structures. For hedges, space the plants out consistently so they grow together.

If you have boxwood seeds, keep in mind that they are usually sprouted and pot-grown in a container first. After growing for up to a year, they will have strong roots enabling them to survive outdoors.

For example, if the boxwood’s stem is about 1 in (2. 5 cm) thick: 1 x 18 x 2 = 36. Make the hole about 36 in (91 cm) wide.

If you’re replanting grown boxwood, move past the plant’s branches and dig straight down so you don’t end up hitting the root ball. The root ball is usually about 8 to 10 in (20 to 25 cm) down.

Girdled roots will continue growing sideways if you don’t change their direction. They won’t absorb as much water and nutrients as regular roots, and they can get tangled as well. If any of the roots are pointing in the wrong direction, you can gently tease them apart. Point them downward so they grow down into the soil.

Double-check the positioning to ensure that the boxwood won’t lean to one side or end up with exposed roots.

If the soil is too dense or doesn’t drain quickly enough, you could mix organic compost into it. Make it about ⅓ compost to ⅔ soil.

Watering the soil compacts it, pushing out any air bubbles left from when you covered the roots. Freshly-planted boxwood needs about 1 in (2. 5 cm) of water per week over the first 2 years. The best way to water boxwood is by placing a dripping hose near it.

Mulch is useful for sealing in heat and moisture boxwood. Boxwood roots dry out very easily without mulch. Mulch prevents grass and weeds from growing too close to boxwood roots. If you see other plants growing, they could steal water and nutrients from the shallow roots, so remove them right away. You do not have to add fertilizer to the soil during the first growing season. Mulch is enough. The additional nutrients could damage the roots.

For hedges, cut boxwood back to 3 to 5 in (7. 6 to 12. 7 cm) above the ground for the first 3 years. After that, you can let the plant grow and remove up to ⅓ of it each spring so it grows strong.

Clay and terracotta pots tend to drain a little more quickly than plastic pots. Be aware of possible moisture retention if you use plastic. When you use the pot, don’t place it on a plant saucer. Boxwood can’t survive in wet soil.

Boxwood can usually be kept in the same pot for up to 3 years. When it gets too big and stops growing as quickly, transfer it to something bigger.

For example, mix together equal amounts of soil, peat moss, and then sand, perlite, or vermiculite. Don’t use soil from outside your home. It won’t be sterile, so it could harm the growing boxwood.

Make sure that the soil won’t touch, let alone cover, the boxwood’s leaves, or else they will rot. The extra 1⁄2 in (1. 3 cm) at the top prevents the leaves from getting wet or dirty.

When you remove the plant, you will see a big ball of dirt with all the roots mixed in. You won’t have to break apart this root ball.

Fill in the hole so the soil level is consistent. It should be 1⁄2 in (1. 3 cm) below the rim with the roots well-covered.

Since you don’t have anything below the pot, you could end up with a mess if you’re not careful. Be aware that a torrent of water will flow out the drainage holes if you want to stay dry! Boxwood does not need to be watered often. If you water it thoroughly about once a week in the summer, it will be fine. It does not have to be watered as often in the colder months.