Buy paint for both the wall and the screen. Paint your wall entirely. Paint the screen. Add a frame.

Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White, # B20 W 51 is recommended.

Turn on your projector and position it to where you want the image to be on the wall. Mark off the inside area of where your projected image will be. Paint the wall around this border, leaving the screen area for later. Try to use a paint that is non-reflective and darker than your screen paint.

Move your tape to the outside border of your screen. Sand the area and make sure the wall surface is flat and free of any holes, cracks, or bumps. Apply primer and let it dry. Apply your first coat of paint. Use a small paint roller for the best results. Once you’ve got a smooth and dry first coat you can add another to finish.

Add a strip of black velvet tape to each edge of the screen. Make sure the tape runs evenly and that your frame is level and straight. Check that the tape is laying smooth and flat against the wall.

Make sure you have a wall with enough empty space to accommodate your finished screen. You should have enough space in the room to allow your projector the right amount of distance from the screen. All projector models will have different requirements.

Turn your projector on and have it set to its test image. Measure the size of the image where you will be using your screen. Record both the width and the length of the screen.

Four pine boards for the frame. Two will be longer and will run horizontally and two shorter boards will be used for the vertical sides of the frame. Material for the screen itself. 53” seamless white paper or blackout cloth can be good choices. Make sure to have at least an extra 5” of your screen material so that you can attach it to the back of your frame. Screws and a screwdriver. Flat corner braces. Three or four picture hangers. A level and pencil to mark guidelines.

Cut your boards with a handsaw to the length you need if they are too long. Lay the frame out. Place a corner brace on each corner where the boards meets. Sink your screws into the wood through the corner braces. Check to see how stable your frame is. You can add additional braces if needed.

Lay your screen down flat on the floor. Place your frame on top of your screen and center it. Pull the extra screen material up and over the edge of the frame. Start stapling the screen to the frame. Space your staples about ten inches apart. Keep the screen tight as you add staples, removing wrinkles as you go. Go around again and place staples every five inches.

Screw in regular picture hangers evenly along the top horizontal beam of your frame. You can try adding black artists tape to the edges of your screen to give it a nice stylistic finish. Adding a dark border can also help improve picture quality by cutting down on light reflection.

Turn your projectors test image on. Use a pencil to lightly outline where the image is being projected. Use this guideline to help you hang your projector screen in just the right place.

Use a stud finder to locate stable places on your wall to install the hanger screws and mark them with a pencil. Draw a level line between the points where you will be adding the hanger screws. Install the hanger screws using a screwdriver. Hang the projector screen and enjoy.

Something to cut PVC pipe with. A glue for PVC pipes. Twenty feet of rope or cord. A drill to make holes in the PVC pipes. 6 10’ long sections of 1” diameter PVC pipes. 8 1” diameter, 90 degree PVC elbows. 2 1” diameter, 45 degree PVC elbows. 1 straight connector 6 1” diameter T connectors Tape 1 6’x8’ white tarp.

Cut two pipes to be 8’ 6”. Save the parts you cut away. Cut two pipes to be 6’ 6”. Save the pieces you cut off. Cut two pipes to be 6’ 3”. Don’t throw the scrap away.

Connect the two 8'6” pipes to the 6'6” pipes using your 90 degree connectors. This builds the bottom rectangular base. Add three T-connecters to the 8'6” pipes. They should be spaced two feet apart from each other and the corners. On the back of the base, place the 3'6” pieces of pipes into the T-connectors closest to the corners. Put ninety degree elbows on these 3'6” pipes and then add the 1'6” piece out of them. Add a 45 degree elbow on the end of that pipe. From those 45 degree elbows, connect the 6'3” pieces and connect them down to the front T-connectors. Use a straight connector to join the two 3'9” pipes. Add a ninety degree elbow to each end. Take a small 3” piece of pipe and join this long pipe to the center T-connectors.

Drill holes in the four corners of your frame. Put your cord through the holes. Thread the cord down the length of the frame, putting it through the eye-holes of the tarp as you go. Tie the cords off to secure the screen in place.