When buying bricks, remember to account for the mortar. Add roughly 1/2" to the size of your bricks to make sure you get the right measurement. However, if the bricks you are buying has a “nominal size,” this means that the manufacturer has already added room for mortar. [2] X Research source Always buy 10-15 more bricks than you’ll need – some will inevitably break while you’re working.
The foundation should be the exact length and height of your brick structure. In general, your foundation should be roughly 1 foot deep before you add the concrete. The concrete needs 2-3 days to set, so you can use this time to set up your guides and round up supplies. [3] X Research source
The architectural standard for brick is 3⁄8 inch (1. 0 cm) mortar joint thickness on all sides. There are exceptions, of course, for queen, old Chicago, and custom brick.
String and clamps/nails (to create guidelines). Mortar and a mixing bucket. Level. Brick jointer. Club hammer (to break bricks in half) Tape Measure. [5] X Research source
If you purchase new bricks that are 8 inches in length, make marks on the foundation every 22 centimeters. If you are re-using old bricks that are 8 1/4 inches in length, make marks on the foundation every 22. 5 centimeters.
If you are starting, you might find it easier to mix a small amount of mortar for just a few bricks; this way, you can add mortar or water, as you go to get the right consistency. If you put a small spatula in the bag of mortar, you can use it to add some mortar, mix, check consistency, then add some more, mix and check consistency. This way you can avoid a watery mix of mortar that lets the bricks sag unevenly.
Place a few shovels of mortar on each board, splashing the board first with water so the mortar “keeps”, or stays wet enough to use. [7] X Research source
You can put the mortar on about an inch and a half thick, and then press it down to about a finger’s width. Then wipe off the excess with your finger, giving it the classic indention look that you see on brick houses. In masonry, a course is a row of bricks.
A good, even wall comes from good, even mortar. Checking quickly will help you correct your work as you go, getting better results each time. [10] X Research source
Make sure your line is tight. You can use a level to check it’s straightness. You’ll be moving this line after every course of bricks.
As you work, your wall will look like a shallow “U,” moving up 2-3 courses on either side before filling in the middle with bricks. This ensures that you keep each course level. [11] X Research source
You don’t want the joints of your wall to be even or the wall will be weak. You can either break a brick in half and start with a half brick, or turn a brick sideways (if you’re structure is two bricks thick) and start with that. [12] X Research source
You can also use a wood dowel or a piece of 1/2 inch copper pipe. Both will give you a rounded pattern.
Move the guidelines. Set the mortar. Stagger your first brick. Wipe away excess mortar. Build up the outsides, or leads, of the wall before filling in the middle. [13] X Research source
