Choose a plant with plentiful wide leaves so the mantis has adequate shade to escape the sun. Since your mantis won’t be enclosed, be sure to select a breed that doesn’t develop wings so it doesn’t fly away and escape![2] X Research source If the pot is circular, the diameter of the surface area should be at least three times wider than the mantis’s body length. If the pot is box-shaped, it should be twice as wide as the mantis’s body length and three times as long. [3] X Research source
When using a caged enclosure to house your mantis, it’s recommended to keep a continuous supply of food. But since you’re not using a cage, be vigilant with feeding to make sure the mantis is eating regularly. Keep the soil free of fallen leaves or other obstructions where prey can hide. Try using tweezers to offer food. This way you can gauge how hungry your mantis is as well as use prey that is able to fly or otherwise escape. Fruit flies are a popular food for smaller mantises, and crickets for larger ones. [6] X Research source
If prolonged sunlight dries your plant quickly on a regular basis, rotate the plant between direct sunlight (for the plant’s health) to other areas in the room where the sun doesn’t reach (to maintain moisture). Between regular misting and the moisture received from eating prey, the mantis shouldn’t need another water source. However, for your own peace of mind if this is a concern, go ahead and give it a small water bowl.
One egg case should produce enough mantises to cover 1666 square feet. [8] X Research source Plant at least a couple of egg cases in your garden, on the off-chance that one of them is infertile. Once the babies, or “nymphs,” emerge, they will scatter from the case within a couple hours. Since they’re camouflaged (and since the case will appear the same as before), it will be hard to tell when and if this has happened. [9] X Research source
While cold weather kills mantises, egg cases are laid in the wild before winter,[11] X Research source so refrigerating them is fine.
Before attaching the egg case to the loose twig, locate the slits from which the babies, or “nymphs,” will emerge. Attach the case to the twig with the slits facing outward. Use zip-ties, twine, or wire. Sticky substances like glue or tape may trap the nymphs once they emerge. [14] X Research source
As long as other insect-life remains plentiful in your garden, your mantises should have an abundant food source to survive on their own. Each generation has a one-year life cycle and will die off with the approach of cold weather. However, females will lay new egg cases in the fall, so your garden should be repopulated by next spring or summer. [15] X Research source
Do not use a ziplock bag or any other airtight seal, since the baby nymphs will need air.
Check the bag regularly, since mantises will likely eat each other if left too long on their own. [19] X Research source Nymphs are very small and delicate, so be careful how you handle them. [20] X Research source Use a plastic spoon to transfer them from the bag to a potted plant. Insert the spoon into the bag and wait for them to climb on, then set the spoon on top of the plant’s soil.
