After sewing this line, trim the edge so that there is only 1/8 inch (3 mm) between the thread line and the raw edge. This stitch will end up being on the bottom of your hem. It should help you maintain an even, consistent roll.
While not entirely necessary, pressing the fold in place will make the hem less likely to unroll as you stitch. Fold the fabric so that the bend falls just past your initial row of stitching. You should see your initial stitching along the underside of the fabric but not from the front.
Use a small, sharp needle for best results. Doing so will make it easier to pick up single threads along your hem. The stitch made into your fold should be as close to the actual fold as possible. Position it in between your initial line of stitching and the fold itself. The threads you pick up from the front of the actual fabric should be directly above the stitch made into your fold. These threads should also be right above the raw edge. Make sure that you only pick up one or two threads from the fabric. Picking up more will cause the hem to be more visible from the front of the fabric.
Repeat this until you have 1 to 2 inches (2. 5 to 5 cm) of hem stitching.
Use firm pressure, but do not pull tightly. Pulling too tightly can cause the fabric to bunch up. Smooth out any bubbles or bumps with your fingers.
As you get better at the process, you can pull the thread after 4 to 5 inches (10 to 13 cm) of stitching rather than every 1 to 2 inches (2. 5 to 5 cm). If completed correctly, the raw edge should be hidden along the wrong side of the fabric and the hem stitching should be barely visible from the front.
This step completes the process.
This line will give you a guide, making the hem easier to fold. It also eases the edge in a bit, making it tighter and easier to fold under later on. Consider increasing the thread tension by one place further than necessary for this basting line. Restore the setting to normal once this line is complete.
Holding the fabric somewhat taut along the basting line can help you fold the edge while pressing it in place. Move the iron up and down, rather than moving it side to side, to prevent the material from stretching or shifting as you press it. Use plenty of steam as you press the fold in place.
This line of stitches will act as another guide, making it easier to fold in the hem once more.
Make sure that you do not cut beneath or into the stitches as you complete this step. You need special scissors to cut chiffon and other flimsier fabrics, and those scissors shouldn’t be used for anything else.
The second line of stitching you made should be folded in during this step. Your initial line of stitching will still be visible.
You should have to visible lines of stitches from the back and one visible line from the front. You can either use a straight stitch or an edgestitch for this step. Do not back tack your hem in place. Leave enough thread at the beginning and end of the seam to knot it by hand. [2] X Research source
This step completes the process.
Choose your rolled hem presser foot carefully if you do not already own one. The best and most versatile kind will allow you to make rolled hems using a straight stitch, zig zag stitch, or decorative stitch. For this project alone, however, you only need one that will allow you to make a standard straight stitch.
Leave long tails of thread after stitching this line. Both the line of stitches and the attached threads will help you guide the fabric into the presser foot. Do not fold your fabric in yet during this step. Stitch along the wrong side of the material.
Keep the presser foot lifted as you feed the material in, then lower the presser foot when finished. Feeding the material into the presser foot can be difficult. Use the threads attached to your small set of basting stitches to help lift, guide, and maneuver the edge into the presser foot.
If the edge has been fed into the presser foot guide correctly, the presser foot should continue to roll it under as you work. No further effort on your part should be required. Using your right hand, hold the remaining raw edge taut as you sew, allowing it to feed into the presser foot evenly. Work slowly and carefully to prevent bubbles or bumps from forming. When finished, your hemmed edge should be smooth. Do not back tack the material in place. Instead, leave a long tail of thread at the start and end of the seam and knot the thread in place by hand. You will only see one line of stitching from both the front and back of the material.
This step should complete the process.
