Use smooth, slow motions, and be sure not to brush hard or scrape your dog’s skin. A slicker brush is covered with fine wire pins. It’s designed to remove dead hair, mats, and debris from fur, and is the best grooming tool for double-coated dogs. You can buy one online or at your local pet supply store. If you can’t brush daily, at least try to do it once a week. [2] X Expert Source Lancy WooCertified Pet Groomer Expert Interview. 26 February 2020.
If you use wet wipes, make sure they’re safe to use on dogs. Choose baby wipes or cleansing wipes labeled for dogs instead of harsher wipes meant for household cleaning.
Wipe gently toward the corners of its eyes. Avoid coming into contact with the eye itself. Lift an ear and wipe any buildup away from the hairs and the skin inside. Dry the insides of the ears after wiping them with the damp cloth.
Be sure the toothpaste is marked safe for pets. Your dog will get sick if it swallows toothpaste made for humans. If your dog resists having its teeth brushed, try using a flavored toothpaste. Chicken flavored toothpaste usually does the trick.
If you do need to blow dry your border terrier, use a low, cool or warm setting. [7] X Expert Source Lancy WooCertified Pet Groomer Expert Interview. 26 February 2020. Hold the blow dryer at least 1 foot (30 cm) away from your dog, and avoid blowing directly in its face. [8] X Trustworthy Source American Kennel Club The American Kennel Club (AKC) is a purebred dog pedigree registry in the United States. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Go to source
A border terrier’s coarse outer coat is waterproof and keeps dirt away from the undercoat and skin. Bathing removes the coat’s oil and softens its texture. Without its oil and wiry texture, the coat loses its repellent properties.
Most dogs don’t like having their paws handled. Trimming its nails and the fur around its paw pads is delicate, and your dog needs to remain still during handling to avoid accidental injuries.
Massaging petroleum jelly into your dog’s paw pads can help protect them from snow, salt, and chemicals. Snow, salt, and de-icing chemicals can be irritating or poisonous. When you wipe your dog’s paws after walks, check the pads and lower legs for chafing and redness. If you see signs of irritation, apply witch hazel or soak your dog’s paws in 1 gallon (3. 8 L) of warm water and 1⁄2 to 1 cup (120 to 240 mL) of Epsom salt for at least 10 minutes.
If your dog resists, aim to trim only 1 to 2 nails at a time, then give it a break. If you cut the quick, stop the bleeding by gently packing it with baking soda or by holding a bar of soap to the paw for 3 to 4 minutes. Do your best to reassure your dog with calm praise. Bandage the paw when the bleeding stops, and call the vet if you can’t control the bleeding.
Remove enough hair so that none covers the paw pads. You should be able to see the pads clearly. Trim your border terrier’s feet every 5 to 6 months, or when its hair begins to cover the pads. Excess hair around the paw pads collects grime and makes it harder for your dog to walk without slipping.
Stripping is the process of pulling out dead hair by hand. It’s a common grooming practice for wiry, double-coated terriers. Since the hair is dead, it’s easy to pluck out without causing any pain. With practice, you might be able to strip the entire coat in around 30 to 60 minutes. However, it will most likely take several 30 to 60 minute sessions if you’re a beginner. You should not cut a border terrier’s coat with electric clippers. Clipping ruins the coat’s texture and color, and causes it to lose its ability to repel dirt and water.
Some owners simply strip their border terrier while cuddling on the sofa. This is a good option if you can’t get your dog to stand on a table for 30 minutes. However, you’ll have an easier time seeing its natural lines and stripping it evenly if it’s standing. [19] X Research source You’ll probably need to work in several short sessions, especially the first few times you strip the coat. If it’s not used to being stripped, your dog will probably only tolerate 10 or 15 minute sessions.
You shouldn’t encounter much resistance when you pinch and tug. If dead hair doesn’t come out easily, the coat isn’t ready to be stripped. If necessary, try again in 1 to 2 weeks.
Your dog shouldn’t jerk or yelp as if it felt pain. If the hair doesn’t come out easily or if plucking seems to hurt your dog, the coat isn’t ready to be stripped. It might be helpful to look at a visual reference while you strip. Search online or in a dog breed guidebook for pictures of freshly stripped border terriers.
Your dog might be confused or alarmed the first time you strip its coat. Reassure it with generous praise and have its favorite treats handy. Try to pluck for at least 10 to 15 minutes, but don’t force your dog if gets stressed. Take a break, and make another attempt when your dog is mellow.
While it might be a bit tedious, stripping is relatively simple. Just be patient, and work little by little over the course of a few days if you or your dog get antsy. When you’re finished stripping the body, you should see your dog’s undercoat, and its appearance should be neat and tidy instead of shaggy and unkempt.
Use scissors to trim the hair that grows around the paw pads.
Pluck hair on the ears toward the points of the ears. When stripping the head and face, it’s wise to have a visual reference on hand. For helpful images, search online for “border terrier head study. ”
Don’t leave a beard or long hair below the jawline. Step back often to make sure you’re stripping the face and muzzle evenly. Whiskers don’t grow as fast as the rest of the coat, so any mistakes will last for months.
The base, middle, and tip will then grow at different rates, and the tail will come to a point like a carrot. The breed standard specifies a tapered tail. If you’re not worried about meeting the standard, just shape the tail into a point as best you can. Leave some hair at the base and gradually pluck more hair as you get to the tip. Pinch smaller amounts of fur around your dog’s rear end and tail, as these are sensitive areas.
The area between your dog’s hind legs is sensitive, and hair there doesn’t grow as long as the rest of its body. Just use scissors on the thin hair that covers the sensitive areas; the upper abdomen and chest should be plucked by hand.
