Common fuse panel locations include under the hood, beneath the steering wheel, and in the trunk.
If you can’t figure out how to remove the lid or cover, consult the owner’s manual. Do the same if the legend is missing, obscured by grime, or too confusing to decipher.
Always follow the specific instructions for your multimeter. Depending on the device, it will likely beep, flash, light up, or display a readout that indicates continuity. If there is no continuity, the fuse has blown and needs to be replaced. If there is continuity, the fuse probably isn’t the problem with your cigarette lighter. Go ahead and replace the fuse at this point anyway, just to be sure it’s not contributing to the problem in any way.
If the panel doesn’t contain a removal tool, use household tweezers or needle-nose pliers from your toolbox. The removed fuse will probably look a bit like a translucent pulled tooth. The wire inside the fuse is likely to be broken, blackened, or both.
Automobile fuses are inexpensive, usually running only $1-2 USD apiece. Buy a few matching replacements just in case you end up with a “dud. ” Make sure to use a spare fuse from the panel, not one that’s currently in operation—check the legend!
If you’re having trouble lining up the fuse properly, use the removal tool to position the fuse. You’ll still have to press down with your finger in order to seat the fuse, though.
If you don’t have continuity, pull out the new fuse and try another replacement. If this still doesn’t work, you almost certainly have a wiring problem that should be addressed by a licensed mechanic.
If you’re still not sure if the socket should work when the vehicle is off, turn on the vehicle during the test.
Your multimeter may use a symbol to denote DC voltage. It’s usually a capital V with 3 hyphens [ — ] right above it, and a solid horizontal line [ — ] right above that. Make sure your probe leads are plugged into the multimeter properly, based on the product instructions. Generally speaking, the black lead should be plugged into the black “COM” socket, and the red lead should be in the red “V” socket (not the red “A” socket, which tests amperage and won’t produce a result here).
If the car is off and the socket is working properly, you should see a readout at or close to 12 volts. If the car is on, the readout may be closer to 14 volts. If the readout is substantially below 12 volts, and definitely if it’s at zero, the socket requires repair and/or replacement.
If you do choose to work on the socket yourself, be sure to disconnect the car’s battery first.
Debris in the bottom of the socket can block the connection between the contact plate on the bottom and whatever item you plug in.
This little trick will help if your phone charger or other plug-in item tends to come loose or fall out of the socket. It’s worth repeating—don’t stick sharp objects or metal objects (other than properly-sheathed multimeter probes) into the socket. You’ll damage the socket, get a shock, or both!
Contact the car manufacturer if you’re having trouble finding a matching replacement.
