Take care not to damage the shingles when you lift their edges. If you accidentally crack a shingle, slide the guard section into place, then use a putty knife to apply roofing cement over the crack.
Most products come in 4 to 6 ft (1. 2 to 1. 8 m) sections. If you have trouble handling a section on your own, recruit a helper to hold 1 side of the guard steady while you work from the other side.
Continue until you’ve finished snapping the rest of the guard section into place. Some products have several individual clipping mechanisms. For others, the clipping mechanism runs continuously along the outer edge.
If you need to cover a corner, you can simply butt-join most mesh or grate guards, or line up 1 section perpendicular to another. However, for some systems, you’ll need to cut miter joints in guard sections that meet at corners. [7] X Research source
Repeat the steps to cut a corresponding 45-degree angle into the end of another guard section. The pair of adjoining sections can now meet at a corner without leaving any of the gutter uncovered. Before cutting, double check that you’ve aligned the sections correctly. Make sure the sides that slide into the roofline face inward and the ones that connect to the gutter face outward.
Suppose your total gutter length is 150 ft (46 m), and your sections are 4 ft (1. 2 m). After installing 37 full-sized sections, you’ll have 2 ft (0. 61 m) leftover, and you’ll need to cut a section to match that size. You’ll need a good pair of tin snips to trim a metal gutter guard. Products made of plastic are easier to cut, so you’ll probably only need a utility knife or box cutter.
To maintain a watertight seal, apply a small amount of roofing cement around the screws that secure the brackets to the roof. Brackets are more common in top-quality gutter guard systems, which are often professionally installed.
Take care not to loosen the underlayment, or the waterproof layer, beneath the shingles. Slide the guard section into place between the shingle layer and the underlayment, not between the underlayment and the roof deck.
Self-tapping screws are designed drill their own hole, so pre-drilling holes into the gutter’s lip is unnecessary.
Cut a corresponding angle in the section that will join with the first. Double check that you’ve aligned the 2 sections correctly before cutting. When lined up with each other, the 45-degree slants in each section should meet flush so the 2 sections form a 90-degree corner, or a right angle. Make sure the inner and outer sides of each section face the right direction.
Sealing the screws helps ensure water will flow into the gutter instead of running through the holes in the lip.
As insurance, plan on purchasing about 10% more guard material than your gutters’ total length.
Mesh and grate guards made of lightweight plastic are the cheapest option, but they’re easily damaged or dislodged. Metal and heavy-duty plastic products are more durable. Inexpensive coarse-mesh screens are good options for keeping out large leaves and twigs. However, since debris tends to get stuck in coarse-mesh screens, they’re generally harder to clean. A fine-mesh guard is more effective for needles, seeds, and other small debris. That said, large leaves and twigs can sometimes collect on top of fine-mesh products, so you may need to sweep or hose down the guards from time to time. [19] X Research source
Cost and complexity are the major drawbacks. At $6 to $10 (U. S. ) per foot (30. 5 cm), they’re expensive. Some models must be professionally installed, which can push the cost per foot (30. 5 cm) up to $15 to $20. If your gutters’ pitch is too steep, they may need to be rehung or the opening between them and the cover will be too wide. In addition, if you want an inconspicuous option, most gutter covers are bulkier and more obvious than screens. If you’re budget-conscious and don’t want to hire a professional, consider PVC surface-tension covers. They’re not as durable as metal covers, but they’re cheaper and easier to carry up a ladder.
There are also screen guards that are simply wedged into a gutter. They cost as little as $0. 10 per foot (30. 5 cm), but they’re ineffective. With no fasteners at all, they don’t keep out debris, and they easily become dislodged.
Screw-fastened products require more work and are usually a bit more expensive than snap-on versions.
Leaves and other debris can get caught in brush fibers. Foam tends to collect seeds, which can sprout and grow without regular maintenance. Unless it’s absolutely necessary, avoid inserts and screens without fasteners. You’re investing time and money, not to mention going through the hassle of climbing up a ladder, so you want to make sure your product does its job. [24] X Trustworthy Source Consumer Reports Nonprofit organization dedicated to consumer advocacy and product testing Go to source
